autumn winter 2018
COPENHAGEN, FEBRUARY 1, 2018
by BROOKE BOBB
It’s a shame that Mark Kenly Domino Tan doesn’t have a bigger presence on the international fashion scene. He cut his teeth at Balenciaga and Alexander McQueen, and he is one of Copenhagen’s most skilled tailors and a thoughtful designer whose clothes could stand on their own among the established luxury labels of Paris and Milan. He prefers to remain a bit quiet, however, often skipping the Spring shows in his hometown for intimate press appointments in Paris. Tan’s Fall 2018 collection—which he showed today in a chilly, stark rooftop space inside an old warehouse building—was proof that buyers and editors from around the world should pay more attention to him. Also, maybe it’s time for him to rethink the way he promotes (and doesn’t promote) his brand.
Tan could start by pushing his brilliant suiting front and center. His jackets and trousers came in earthy tones and with loose, easy silhouettes. The designer styled them with vintage scarf-print pussy-bow blouses, which were modeled by clean-faced male and female models who wore their hair in slicked-back, low ponytails—a fine example of how to do unisex on the runway without it feeling contrived or trying too hard. It also felt a bit preppy and collegiate, considering the draped and frayed tweeds and knits, his signature sculptural shirting, and oversize wool trenchcoats. You could see a number of the pieces on a range of customers, whether she’s a Phoebe Philo worshiper or he’s a Børns kind of guy. Tan has the focus and ability to lure them all, as long as he is willing to start casting a wider net.